Food & Chefs: Breaking Chews--Superica

Image Credit: Belinda declares: best margarita ever!

Published by: David Danzig on Thursday March 26th, 2015

David Danzig

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If you are waiting for chef Ford Fry's hot hand to cool better grab a Snickers.  He's not going anywhere for awhile.  

Fry's latest success, Superica, pops up in the Atlanta's new food hall masterpiece, Krog Street Market, a spectacular repurposing of the old Atlanta Stove Works factory into an oasis of high-concept eateries, good times drinkeries and nifty sundries shops.  Superica continues the "Mex Tex" theme that Fry and chef Kevin Maxey have nailed up at Alpharetta development, Avalon, with their concept The El Felix.  Minus a couple differences on the menu, the offerings are the same:  truly authentic versions of Tex-Mex border cuisine that are executed with fresh ingredients and mesquite and oak smoked meats.  The atmosphere is casual and cozy, a dining room that while unspectacular, does an excellent job transporting you mentally to a chic den of smokey goodness somewhere in a small town in Texas (maybe Austin?  El Paso?  Dallas?).  

While I gorged myself, Belinda exercised amazing restraint not to devour the house-made corn chips and their smokey salsa which was especially impressive since she opted in for not one, but 2 "Superitas," a Margarita made with Herradura Double Reposado, Royal Combier and citrus marinated olives.  Her words: "the best margarita I have ever tasted!"

Her restraint quickly disappeared when Superica's flautas arrived which look and eat like crispy fried Mexican egg rolls made with chicken and queso fresco.   Next we tried the hot tamales made with tender ancho chilli pork were also outstanding, smoked in a corn husk.  I had mixed fajitas for my main course with smoked chicken, wood grilled marinated flank steak and 2x cooked heritage breed pork belly which was crispy on the outside, tender on the inside and exploding with flavor.  The bliss of wrapping the meat in one of their piping-hot housemade flour tortilla almost made my eyes roll back into my head.  Belinda had the Tacos Carnitas made with crispy pork belly and a hot and sweet guava glaze.  Her rapture manifested itself in a rare several minutes of silent reverence while she consumed.  I think she discovered her happy place at Superica.

I feel like Superica and El Felix are Mexican food like you've always wanted--super authentic, savory and gluttonous, but made with quality ingredients and "cheffed-up" just enough to be delicious but not so much that it distracts from the fundamentals.  In short, this is south of the border comfort food at its finest.  

Belinda and I give Superica an enthusiastic "Estrellas Cinco" (Five Stars) and if you haven't checked out Krog Street Market, you absolutley must block some time and do a meal over fact, we will be broadcasting Atlanta Living live on 4/4 from 1p-3p!  Come see us then!